The Chouwara tanneries are the medina's largest and one of Fez's most recognisable landmarks. The facility has operated since at least the 16th century and underwent significant renovation in 2016 while maintaining its medieval character.
The Scene
Viewed from the surrounding balconies, the scene remains remarkably medieval. Leather workers engage in intensive labour — soaking, scraping, dyeing — in large stone vats filled with natural pigments. The colours — saffron yellow, poppy red, rich brown — are vivid against the ochre walls of the medina. Morning visits are recommended to see the dye-filled pits at their most vibrant.
Visiting
Access requires entering leather shops with terraces overlooking the tanneries. The experience is free, though shops will offer you a sprig of mint to hold against your nose — the smell of the tanning process is distinctive. While the commercial atmosphere can feel overwhelming, you won't find a better selection of leather in Morocco.
The tanneries are accessible from Place As Seffarine by heading east toward the distinctive smell of skin and dye — follow your nose and you will find them.